Storing Geraniums Over Winter – Save Your Favorite Plants And Money
Do you feel a pang of sadness when the first frost threatens your vibrant garden? We’ve all been there, watching those stunning blooms fade as the cold sets in.
I promise that you don’t have to treat these beauties as annuals or let them succumb to the ice. With a little bit of knowledge, you can keep your favorite varieties alive for years to come.
In this guide, I will show you exactly how to master storing geraniums over winter so you can enjoy even bigger, healthier plants when the sun returns.
Why You Should Overwinter Your Geraniums
Most of the plants we call geraniums are actually Pelargoniums. These are tender perennials that hail from South Africa, meaning they love the sun but hate the frost.
If you live in a climate with freezing winters, these plants will die if left outside. However, their ability to go dormant makes them incredibly resilient and easy to save.
Saving your plants isn’t just about saving money at the nursery. It’s about preserving a specific flower color or a plant that has grown to a magnificent size over the summer.
Older plants often produce more blooms than the young starts you find in 4-inch pots. By keeping your plants, you are giving yourself a head start on a lush, established garden for next year.
Don’t worry—these flowers are perfect for beginners! The process is straightforward, and even if you don’t have a green thumb, you can succeed with these steps.
The Ultimate Guide to Storing Geraniums Over Winter Successfully
There are three primary ways to keep your plants safe until spring. The method you choose depends on your available space and how much effort you want to put in.
The most popular method for many enthusiasts is the bare-root method. This involves letting the plant go completely dormant in a cool, dark place like a basement.
Another option is keeping them as active houseplants. This is great if you have a very bright, sunny window or a heated greenhouse that stays above freezing.
Finally, you can take cuttings. This is the best choice if you have limited space, as dozens of small “starts” take up much less room than several large parent plants.
When storing geraniums over winter, the goal is always the same: keep the main stem and root system alive while the plant rests.
Let’s dive into the specifics of the bare-root method, which is often the most fascinating and space-saving technique for home gardeners.
The Bare-Root Dormancy Method
To start, you need to wait until just before the first hard frost. A light touch of frost won’t hurt them, but a deep freeze will turn the stems to mush.
Carefully dig up your plants, being mindful not to sever the main taproot. If they are in pots, simply tip them out and shake away the excess soil.
You don’t need to wash the roots. In fact, keeping them dry is a priority to prevent fungal issues during their long winter nap.
Once the soil is removed, prune the plant back by about half. This reduces the amount of energy the plant needs to maintain while it is dormant.
Remove all the remaining leaves. This might feel “mean,” but leaves will only rot and attract pests in a dark storage environment.
Find a cool, dry, and dark spot. An unheated basement, a root cellar, or a crawl space that stays between 40°F and 50°F is absolutely perfect.
Using Paper Bags for Storage
One of the easiest ways to manage bare-root plants is by using brown paper bags. Place one or two plants in each bag and fold the top loosely.
The paper allows for gas exchange and prevents moisture from building up. Never use plastic bags, as they will trap humidity and cause the plants to rot.
Alternatively, some gardeners prefer to hang the plants upside down from the rafters. This is a classic technique that provides excellent air circulation.
Regardless of the method, you should check your plants once a month. If the stems look extremely shriveled, soak the roots in water for an hour, then let them dry and return them to storage.
If you see any mold or soft spots on the stems, cut those sections away immediately with sterilized pruners to save the rest of the plant.
Keeping Geraniums as Active Houseplants
If you aren’t comfortable with the idea of “sleeping” plants, you can treat them like any other indoor potted plant. This keeps them green all year long.
Before bringing them inside, you must inspect them thoroughly for “hitchhikers.” Aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites love to move indoors where it is warm.
I recommend giving the plants a gentle spray with a neem oil solution or insecticidal soap a few days before the big move.
Once inside, place them in your brightest window. A south-facing window is usually the best spot to provide the high light levels these plants crave.
Reduce your watering schedule significantly. Indoor air is drier, but the plant’s growth will slow down during the shorter days of winter.
Avoid heavy fertilizing during this time. You want to keep the plant healthy, but you aren’t trying to force massive new growth until the spring sun arrives.
Managing “Leggy” Growth Indoors
One common problem with indoor geraniums is that they become “leggy.” This means the stems grow long and thin as they stretch toward the light.
If this happens, don’t panic. You can pinch back the growing tips to encourage the plant to branch out and stay bushy.
If the plant looks truly unhappy by February, you can always prune it back hard. Geraniums are incredibly resilient and will bounce back with vigor.
Keep the plants away from heat vents or cold drafts. Consistency is key when you are storing geraniums over winter in a living space.
Remember that indoor plants are more susceptible to fungus gnats. Avoid overwatering to keep these pesky little flies away from your potting soil.
Propagating Cuttings for the New Season
If your parent plants have grown too large for your windowsills, taking cuttings is a brilliant alternative. It’s like creating a backup of your garden.
Take a 4-to-6-inch cutting from a healthy, non-flowering stem. Use a sharp, clean knife to make a clean cut just below a leaf node.
Remove the lower leaves, leaving only two or three at the very top. This prevents the cutting from losing too much moisture through transpiration.
Let the cut end “callus” over by leaving it on a counter for a few hours. This thin layer of dry skin helps prevent rot once it hits the soil.
Dip the end in rooting hormone if you have it, though geraniums often root quite easily even without it. Stick the cutting into a pot of moist perlite or seed-starting mix.
Cover the pot with a clear plastic dome or bag to create a mini-greenhouse. Place it in indirect light, and in a few weeks, you’ll have a brand-new root system.
Caring for Young Cuttings
Once the cuttings have rooted, move them to individual pots with high-quality potting soil. They will need bright light to grow strong stems.
These “babies” will be much easier to manage on a windowsill than a full-sized shrub. By spring, they will be ready to be hardened off and planted outside.
This method is also a great way to share your favorite plants with friends. Who wouldn’t love a “start” of a beautiful heirloom geranium?
Make sure to label your cuttings! It is very easy to forget which color is which when you only have green stems to look at in January.
The Spring Awakening: Bringing Plants Back Outdoors
As the days grow longer and the threat of frost passes, it is time to wake up your dormant plants. This is the most exciting part of the process!
For bare-root plants, take them out of their bags in late March or early April. Soak the roots in tepid water for several hours to rehydrate them.
Pot them up in fresh, well-draining potting mix. Trim any dead or brittle wood from the top of the plant until you see green tissue inside the stem.
Place the pots in a warm, sunny spot indoors. Within a week or two, you should see tiny green buds beginning to emerge from the stems.
Don’t be discouraged if they look like “dead sticks” at first. Geraniums are slow to wake up, but once they start, they grow very rapidly.
Hardening Off Your Plants
You cannot move plants directly from a cozy house to the outdoor garden. They need a transition period known as hardening off.
Start by placing them outside in a sheltered, shady spot for just an hour or two during the warmest part of the day.
Gradually increase their time outside and their exposure to direct sunlight over the course of 7 to 10 days. This toughens up the leaf cuticles.
If a surprise late frost is predicted, bring them back inside immediately. All your hard work storing geraniums over winter could be undone by one cold night.
Once the nighttime temperatures consistently stay above 50°F, you can safely leave them outside for the duration of the summer season.
Frequently Asked Questions About Storing Geraniums Over Winter
Can I store geraniums in a garage?
Yes, provided the garage is attached and stays above freezing. If your garage drops below 32°F, the water in the plant’s cells will freeze and kill it. A thermometer is a great tool to monitor the space before committing your plants to it.
How often should I water dormant geraniums?
Very rarely. If you are using the bare-root method, you might only need to mist or soak the roots once every 4-6 weeks. For potted plants in a cool basement, a small amount of water once a month is usually sufficient to keep the root ball from completely desiccating.
Do all types of geraniums overwinter the same way?
Zonal and ivy geraniums are the easiest to overwinter using the bare-root method. Martha Washington (Regal) geraniums prefer to stay in pots and keep some leaves, as they don’t go into a deep dormancy as easily as the other varieties.
Why did my geranium stems turn black?
Black stems are usually a sign of fungal rot or “black leg.” This happens when the storage area is too damp or if the plant was overwatered. If you see this, cut back to healthy green wood and ensure the storage area has better air circulation.
When is the best time to start the overwintering process?
The best time is right after the first “light” frost has nipped the leaves but before a “hard” freeze (below 28°F) occurs. The light frost signals to the plant that it is time to slow down, making the transition to dormancy much smoother.
Final Thoughts on Winter Geranium Care
Mastering the art of storing geraniums over winter is a rewarding skill that every gardener should have in their toolkit. It connects us to the cycles of nature.
There is a profound sense of satisfaction in seeing a “dead-looking” stick burst into life and produce a canopy of brilliant red or pink flowers in May.
Whether you choose the bare-root method, keep them as houseplants, or take cuttings, you are participating in a long tradition of thrifty, sustainable gardening.
Don’t be afraid to experiment! Try one plant with each method this year to see which one works best for your specific home environment and schedule.
Remember, gardening is a journey of continuous learning. Even if a few plants don’t make it, the experience you gain will make you a better gardener next year.
So, grab some paper bags and your favorite pruners, and get to work saving those beautiful blooms. You’ll thank yourself when spring arrives!
Go forth and grow!
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