Sarah Bernhardt Peony – Master The Art Of Growing This Fragrant
Do you dream of a garden filled with massive, rose-pink blooms that smell like heaven? You aren’t alone, as most gardeners find it hard to resist the timeless charm of these heritage flowers.
The good news is that you don’t need a degree in horticulture to enjoy a flourishing sarah bernhardt peony in your backyard. With a bit of patience and the right location, these perennials will reward you for decades.
In this guide, I’ll show you exactly how to plant, maintain, and protect your peonies so you can enjoy those iconic double-petaled flowers every single spring.
What's On the Page
- 1 Why the Sarah Bernhardt Peony Remains a Garden Legend
- 2 Choosing the Perfect Location for Success
- 3 Planting the sarah bernhardt peony: A Step-by-Step Guide
- 4 Essential Care for Massive, Healthy Blooms
- 5 Managing Common Challenges and Pests
- 6 Pruning and Winterizing Your Garden
- 7 Cutting Flowers for Indoor Arrangements
- 8 Frequently Asked Questions About Sarah Bernhardt Peonies
- 9 Conclusion
Why the Sarah Bernhardt Peony Remains a Garden Legend
Introduced way back in 1906 by the French breeder Lemoine, this variety has stood the test of time for a reason. It is often the first plant people think of when they hear the word “peony.”
The blooms are technically classified as double-form, meaning they are packed with layers of ruffled petals. The color is a soft, apple-blossom pink that often features tiny flecks of crimson at the center.
Beyond their beauty, they are incredibly hardy. Once established, these plants are known to live for 50 years or more, often outliving the gardeners who planted them.
Understanding the Growth Habit
This is an herbaceous perennial, which means it grows vigorously in the spring, blooms in early summer, and then dies back to the ground in winter. It typically reaches a height of about 3 feet.
The foliage is a deep, glossy green that provides a beautiful backdrop for other summer flowers even after the blooming season has ended. It creates a lush, shrub-like appearance during the warmer months.
Because the flower heads are so large and heavy, the stems can sometimes struggle to stay upright. This is a common trait for the variety, but it is easily managed with the right support.
Choosing the Perfect Location for Success
Before you dig a single hole, you need to find the “forever home” for your plant. Peonies are famous for hating being moved, so getting the spot right the first time is essential.
Sunlight is the most critical factor for flower production. You want a spot that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day to ensure those big blooms develop fully.
If you live in an exceptionally hot climate, a little bit of afternoon shade can actually help the pink petals from fading too quickly in the intense heat. However, too much shade will result in fewer flowers.
Soil Quality and Drainage
These plants are heavy feeders, but they absolutely cannot stand “wet feet.” If your soil is heavy clay and stays soggy after rain, the roots (or tubers) will likely rot.
I recommend enriching your soil with plenty of organic matter, such as well-rotted compost or leaf mold. This improves the structure and provides the slow-release nutrients the plant craves.
The ideal soil pH is neutral to slightly acidic. If you aren’t sure about your soil type, a quick home test kit can give you the answers you need before planting.
Air Circulation and Spacing
Peonies need room to breathe. When planting multiple roots, space them at least 3 feet apart to ensure good air circulation around the foliage.
Good airflow is your best defense against fungal issues like powdery mildew or botrytis blight. Avoid crowding them against walls or thick evergreen hedges where the air becomes stagnant.
Giving them their own space also allows the root system to expand without competing for moisture and nutrients with nearby shrubs or trees.
Planting the sarah bernhardt peony: A Step-by-Step Guide
Timing is everything when it comes to starting your garden journey. The best time to plant a sarah bernhardt peony is in the fall, usually between September and November.
Planting in the fall allows the root system to establish itself in the cool soil before the frantic growth of spring begins. While you can find potted versions in spring, fall-planted bare roots often perform better long-term.
When you receive your bare root, you will notice small, pinkish buds known as “eyes.” These are the future stems of your plant, and their depth in the soil is the secret to success.
The Golden Rule of Planting Depth
Dig a hole about 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Fill the bottom with a mix of native soil and compost so that when you place the root inside, the “eyes” are pointing up.
Here is the most important part: the eyes should be no more than 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. If you plant them too deep, the plant will grow beautiful leaves but will never produce flowers.
In warmer southern climates, aim for the 1-inch mark. In very cold northern regions, 2 inches is the sweet spot to provide a little extra protection from the frost.
Initial Watering and Mulching
Once the root is positioned, backfill the hole gently with soil. Press down with your hands to remove any large air pockets, but don’t stomp on it with your feet, as you might break the delicate eyes.
Give the area a deep, thorough watering immediately after planting. This helps settle the soil around the roots and ensures the plant is hydrated as it enters its winter dormancy.
You can apply a light layer of mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, for the first winter. Just remember to pull the mulch away from the center of the plant in early spring so the stems can emerge easily.
Essential Care for Massive, Healthy Blooms
Once your peony is in the ground, it requires surprisingly little maintenance. However, a few “pro” tricks can help you maximize the size and quantity of your flowers each year.
Watering is most important during the spring when the buds are forming and during the heat of mid-summer. Aim for the base of the plant rather than spraying the leaves to prevent fungal growth.
A deep soaking once a week is usually better than light daily sprinkling. This encourages the roots to grow deep into the earth, making the plant more drought-tolerant over time.
Feeding Your Peonies
You don’t need to over-fertilize these plants. In fact, too much nitrogen will give you lots of leaves but very few of those iconic pink blossoms.
Apply a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer (like a 5-10-10 formula) in early spring when the new shoots are about 2 or 3 inches tall. Spread it around the drip line of the plant, not directly against the stems.
A second light feeding can be done after the flowers have faded. This helps the plant store energy in its roots for the following year’s display.
The Importance of Staking
Because the blooms of this variety are so incredibly full, they act like sponges when it rains. A sudden summer downpour can easily snap the stems or leave your flowers face-down in the mud.
I highly recommend using peony hoops or metal grid supports. The trick is to put the supports in place in early spring before the plant gets too tall.
As the stems grow, they will naturally find their way through the grid. By the time the heavy flowers arrive, the support will be hidden by the foliage, and your blooms will stay upright and beautiful.
Managing Common Challenges and Pests
Even the most experienced gardeners run into a few hiccups now and then. Don’t panic if you see a few bugs or spots; most issues are easily solved with a little observation.
One of the most common sights on peony buds is ants. You might see dozens of them crawling all over the sticky flower heads, but don’t worry—they are actually your friends!
The ants are attracted to the sugary nectar the buds secrete. While they don’t “help” the flower open (that’s an old myth), they do protect the plant by chasing away other harmful pests like thrips.
Dealing with Botrytis Blight
If you notice the buds turning black and shriveling before they open, or if you see gray mold on the leaves, you are likely dealing with botrytis. This is a common fungal disease in wet, cool springs.
The best way to handle this is through sanitation. Immediately snip off any affected parts and throw them in the trash—never put diseased peony foliage in your compost pile.
To prevent it next year, ensure you have adequate spacing for airflow and always cut the foliage back to the ground in late autumn to remove any lingering fungal spores.
What if My Peony Won’t Bloom?
If your plant looks healthy but refuses to flower, it is usually due to one of three things. First, check the planting depth; if the eyes have sunk too deep, you may need to lift and replant them in the fall.
Second, consider the light. If a nearby tree has grown and is now casting too much shade, the plant won’t have the energy to produce buds. You might need to prune the tree or move the peony.
Lastly, remember that peonies are slow to settle. It is very common for a newly planted herbaceous root to take two or even three years before it produces its first real show of flowers.
Pruning and Winterizing Your Garden
As the summer fades and the nights get cooler, your peony foliage will begin to turn yellow or even a bit bronze. This is a natural part of the plant’s life cycle.
Don’t be tempted to cut the leaves back while they are still green. The plant is currently using those leaves to photosynthesize and store “food” in its roots for next year’s growth.
Once a hard frost has hit and the foliage has wilted, it is time to get your garden shears ready for some basic maintenance.
The Autumn Cut-Back
Cut all the stems down to about 1 or 2 inches above the soil line. Removing the old foliage is the single most important thing you can do to prevent disease the following year.
Gather up all the clippings and dispose of them. This removes the hiding places for pests and ensures that any fungal spores don’t overwinter near the crown of the plant.
In very cold climates, you can add a fresh layer of mulch over the crown for the winter, but be sure to rake it away as soon as the ground thaws in the spring.
Cutting Flowers for Indoor Arrangements
One of the greatest joys of growing a sarah bernhardt peony is bringing those fragrant blooms inside to enjoy in a vase. They make spectacular, romantic bouquets.
To get the longest vase life, you want to cut the flowers when they are in the “marshmallow stage.” This is when the bud is showing color and feels soft to the touch, like a marshmallow, but hasn’t fully opened yet.
Cutting at this stage ensures the flower opens perfectly inside your home and prevents insects from hitching a ride into your kitchen. It also helps the bloom last for up to a week.
Pro Tip: The Refrigerator Trick
If you have a special event coming up and your peonies are opening too early, you can actually store them in the refrigerator. Cut the buds in the marshmallow stage and wrap them in dry paper towels.
Place them horizontally on a shelf in the fridge. They will stay “asleep” for several weeks. When you are ready to use them, trim the stems, put them in warm water, and they will bloom within hours!
Always remember to leave at least two-thirds of the foliage on the plant when cutting flowers. The plant needs those remaining leaves to stay healthy and strong for the next season.
Frequently Asked Questions About Sarah Bernhardt Peonies
How long does it take for a new peony to bloom?
Generally, you can expect a few small flowers in the second year after planting, with a full, spectacular show by the third year. Peonies are long-lived, so they take their time getting established.
Do I need to remove the ants from the buds?
No, there is no need to remove them. They aren’t harming the plant. If you are cutting the flowers to bring inside, simply give the flower head a gentle shake or a quick rinse with cool water to dislodge them.
Can I grow this variety in a container?
While it is possible, it is quite challenging. Peonies have very large root systems and need the consistent temperatures of the ground. If you must use a pot, ensure it is very large (at least 10-15 gallons) and has excellent drainage.
Why are the flowers on my plant flopping over?
This is usually due to the weight of the double blooms, especially after rain. Using a support hoop or staking the stems early in the spring is the best way to keep them upright.
When is the best time to divide my peonies?
Peonies rarely need to be divided, but if you must do it to move the plant or share it with a friend, the fall is the only time to do so. Ensure each division has at least three to five “eyes” for the best results.
Conclusion
Growing a sarah bernhardt peony is like planting a piece of history in your garden. These flowers represent elegance, fragrance, and a level of hardiness that is rare in the floral world.
By focusing on the right planting depth, providing plenty of sunlight, and giving them a little support during the blooming season, you can ensure your garden is the envy of the neighborhood every June.
Don’t be intimidated by their royal appearance—these plants are surprisingly tough and perfect for anyone looking to add a touch of classic beauty to their landscape. Go forth and grow!
