How To Get Rid Of Bermudagrass – Reclaim Your Garden From This
We’ve all been there—you look at your beautiful flower bed, only to see those wiry, aggressive green runners choking out your prize-winning roses. It feels like an uphill battle because this grass is famously tough to beat.
I promise that you don’t have to surrender your landscape to this “devil grass” forever. With the right strategy and a bit of patience, you can successfully learn how to get rid of bermudagrass once and for all.
In this guide, we’ll walk through everything from organic smothering techniques to targeted treatments that will help you restore your garden’s health and beauty. Let’s dive into the best ways to handle Cynodon dactylon together!
What's On the Page
- 1 Understanding Your Opponent: Why Bermudagrass is So Resilient
- 2 how to get rid of bermudagrass Using Solarization and Smothering
- 3 The Manual Approach: Digging and Sifting for Success
- 4 Chemical Control: When and How to Use Herbicides Safely
- 5 Natural Alternatives for the Organic Gardener
- 6 how to get rid of bermudagrass in Your Lawn
- 7 Preventing the Return: Long-Term Maintenance Strategies
- 8 Frequently Asked Questions About How to Get Rid of Bermudagrass
- 9 Reclaiming Your Garden Oasis
Understanding Your Opponent: Why Bermudagrass is So Resilient
Before we pick up a shovel or a spray bottle, we need to understand what makes this plant such a formidable foe. Bermudagrass is a warm-season perennial that spreads through three distinct methods: seeds, stolons, and rhizomes.
Stolons are the runners that creep across the surface of your soil, rooting at every node they touch. This allows the grass to quickly carpet an entire area, suffocating smaller plants and competing for essential nutrients and moisture.
Rhizomes are the real secret weapon of this plant. These are thick, white underground stems that can dive six inches or deeper into the earth. If you pull the top of the grass but leave a tiny piece of rhizome, it will simply grow back.
This “zombie” quality is why many gardeners feel frustrated. However, once you know that the goal is to kill the underground root system, your tactics become much more effective and targeted.
how to get rid of bermudagrass Using Solarization and Smothering
If you have a large patch of infested land and you aren’t in a massive rush, solarization is a fantastic, chemical-free option. This method uses the power of the sun to literally cook the grass and its seeds.
To start, mow the grass as short as possible and water the area thoroughly. Moisture helps conduct heat deeper into the soil, reaching those stubborn dormant rhizomes that are hiding out of sight.
Cover the area with a clear, heavy-duty plastic tarp. Weigh down the edges with bricks or soil to trap the heat inside. Over the course of 6 to 8 weeks in the heat of summer, the temperature under the plastic will rise high enough to kill the vegetation.
Smothering, or sheet mulching, is a similar “low-effort” technique. Instead of plastic, you use layers of recycled cardboard or thick newspaper topped with several inches of wood chips or compost.
This deprives the grass of light, which is its primary source of energy. While it takes longer than solarization—often a full growing season—it has the added benefit of improving your soil structure as the cardboard breaks down.
Step-by-Step Sheet Mulching Guide
- Mow the area on the lowest setting of your mower.
- Remove any large rocks or debris that might puncture your barrier.
- Lay down overlapping layers of corrugated cardboard, ensuring there are no gaps.
- Wet the cardboard thoroughly to help it settle and begin the decomposition process.
- Add 4 to 6 inches of organic mulch, such as wood chips or bark, on top.
Check the edges of your mulched area frequently. Bermudagrass is opportunistic and will try to “run” out from under the cardboard to find available sunlight near the perimeter.
The Manual Approach: Digging and Sifting for Success
For small patches or garden borders, you might prefer a more hands-on approach. Digging is incredibly effective, but it requires a high level of physical effort and meticulous attention to detail.
Start by using a garden fork rather than a spade. A spade tends to slice the rhizomes into small pieces, and as we discussed, every small piece can sprout a brand-new plant. A fork allows you to lift the root mass intact.
Gently loosen the soil around the grass and lift the entire clump. You will see those white, fleshy rhizomes spreading out like a web. Follow them as far as they go, carefully teasing them out of the dirt.
I always recommend keeping a bucket nearby to drop the grass into immediately. Never toss pulled Bermudagrass onto your compost pile unless you are certain your pile gets hot enough to kill the seeds and roots.
After you think you’ve cleared the area, wait a week and water it. Any missed fragments will likely send up a small green shoot. This is your signal to dig again and remove the remaining fragments before they re-establish.
Chemical Control: When and How to Use Herbicides Safely
Sometimes, the infestation is simply too aggressive for manual removal or smothering. In these cases, a targeted herbicide can be a valuable tool in your gardening arsenal, provided it is used with care.
There are two main types of herbicides to consider: non-selective and selective. Non-selective herbicides, like those containing glyphosate, will kill almost any plant they touch. These are best for total renovations of an area.
Selective herbicides are designed to target specific types of plants. There are “grass-getter” products that contain active ingredients like Fluazifop. These can often be sprayed over certain ornamental shrubs to kill the grass without harming the bush.
Always read the label twice before applying any chemical. Timing is also critical; herbicides work best when the Bermudagrass is actively growing and not stressed by extreme drought or cold.
Wear protective gear, including gloves and long sleeves, and avoid spraying on windy days. You don’t want the mist drifting onto your prized perennials or into your neighbor’s yard!
The “Glove of Death” Technique
If the Bermudagrass is woven tightly through a plant you want to save, don’t spray. Instead, put on a chemical-resistant glove, then put a cotton glove over it. Dip your fingers in the herbicide and “wipe” it onto the grass blades.
This allows for surgical precision. You can coat the weed thoroughly without a single drop touching your delicate flowers. It takes a bit more time, but the results are much safer for your garden’s ecosystem.
Natural Alternatives for the Organic Gardener
If you prefer to avoid synthetic chemicals entirely, there are natural substances that can help. High-strength horticultural vinegar (20% acetic acid) is a popular choice for burning off the top growth of weeds.
Keep in mind that vinegar is a contact killer. It will destroy the green leaves, but it rarely travels down into the deep rhizomes. You will likely need to re-apply it several times as the plant tries to push up new growth.
Boiling water is another old-school trick. Pouring a kettle of boiling water over a small patch of grass can scald the crown of the plant. This is particularly useful for grass growing in the cracks of a sidewalk or driveway.
Another organic strategy is to use corn gluten meal as a pre-emergent. While this won’t kill existing grass, it can help prevent fallen seeds from germinating in the bare spots of your garden beds.
how to get rid of bermudagrass in Your Lawn
It is one thing to remove grass from a flower bed, but it is much harder when the invader is hiding inside your “good” turf, like Fescue or Kentucky Bluegrass. This requires a nuanced strategy to avoid killing your entire lawn.
One of the best defenses is to maintain a thick, healthy lawn. Bermudagrass loves sun and bare soil. By keeping your cool-season grass mowed at a higher height (3 to 4 inches), you shade the soil and make it harder for the invader to take hold.
If you spot a small patch of Bermudagrass in your lawn, act immediately. You can spot-treat the area or even use a post-emergent herbicide specifically labeled for suppressing Bermudagrass in cool-season turf.
Remember that Bermudagrass goes dormant and turns brown in the winter. This is the perfect time to see exactly where it has invaded your lawn. Mark these spots so you can target them aggressively once the spring thaw begins.
Preventing the Return: Long-Term Maintenance Strategies
Once you have successfully cleared an area, the work isn’t quite over. Bermudagrass is persistent, and seeds can remain viable in the soil for years. Constant vigilance is your best friend here.
Install deep physical barriers. A plastic or metal edging that goes at least 6 inches into the ground can stop those underground rhizomes from creeping back in from a neighbor’s yard or an adjacent field.
Mulch your garden beds heavily. A 3-inch layer of wood chips or straw acts as a protective blanket, preventing sunlight from reaching any stray seeds or root fragments that might have survived your initial cleanup.
Finally, do a “walk-through” of your garden once a week. Pulling one tiny sprout takes five seconds. Waiting until that sprout becomes a mat of runners takes five hours. Catching it early is the secret to a stress-free garden.
Frequently Asked Questions About How to Get Rid of Bermudagrass
Can I just mow Bermudagrass away?
Unfortunately, no. In fact, frequent mowing can actually encourage Bermudagrass to spread laterally. It thrives on being kept short, which is why it is often used for golf course fairways. To kill it, you must address the root system.
How long does it take for solarization to work?
In peak summer heat, solarization usually takes between 6 and 8 weeks. If the weather is cloudy or exceptionally cool, you may need to leave the plastic in place for up to 12 weeks to ensure a complete kill.
Will vinegar kill the roots of Bermudagrass?
Vinegar is generally a topical treatment. While it will kill the green blades, the sturdy rhizomes underground will often survive and sprout again. You must be persistent with multiple applications to eventually starve the plant.
Is it better to use clear or black plastic for solarization?
Clear plastic is actually more effective for solarization. It allows solar radiation to pass through and trap the heat underneath (the greenhouse effect). Black plastic tends to absorb the heat itself rather than transferring it into the soil.
When is the best time of year to tackle this grass?
The best time to learn how to get rid of bermudagrass and take action is during its peak growing season, which is late spring through mid-summer. This is when the plant is most active and most susceptible to treatments.
Reclaiming Your Garden Oasis
Dealing with an invasive grass can feel overwhelming, but remember that you are the boss of your backyard! Whether you choose the patient path of solarization or the more immediate action of targeted treatments, consistency is the key to victory.
Don’t be discouraged if a few runners pop up next month. Just pull them out, stay on top of your mulching, and enjoy the beautiful landscape you’ve worked so hard to protect. You’ve got the knowledge and the tools to succeed.
Now, grab your gloves and get out there—your dream garden is waiting for you to bring it back to life. Go forth and grow!
