How To Get Rid Of Bermuda Grass In Your Lawn – Reclaim Your Yard From

ByRimon Chowdhury Updated on

Do you feel like you are losing a constant battle against a grass that just won’t quit? Many gardeners agree that seeing those wiry, creeping stems snaking through their pristine fescue or delicate flower beds is a source of pure frustration.

I promise you that while this “devil grass” is incredibly resilient, it is not invincible. By using the right combination of timing, tools, and persistence, you can finally reclaim your outdoor space and restore the beauty of your landscape.

In this guide, we will explore exactly how to get rid of bermuda grass in your lawn using various methods. We will cover everything from organic smothering and solarization to targeted chemical treatments and long-term prevention strategies.

Understanding the Enemy: Why Bermuda Grass is So Resilient

Before we dive into the removal process, we need to understand why this plant is such a formidable opponent. Bermuda grass is a warm-season perennial that spreads through a multi-pronged attack involving rhizomes and stolons.

Rhizomes are fleshy underground stems that can travel several inches beneath the soil surface. Stolons are the “runners” you see creeping across the top of your soil, rooting at every node they touch.

This dual-action growth means that if you simply pull the top off, the roots remain ready to sprout again. To effectively learn how to get rid of bermuda grass in your lawn, you must target both the visible runners and the hidden root system.

Furthermore, this grass is incredibly drought-tolerant and can survive in poor soil conditions. It thrives in the heat of summer when your desired cool-season grasses might be struggling or dormant.

Because it is so aggressive, a single missed fragment of a root can lead to a full-blown re-infestation within a few months. This is why a thorough, systematic approach is the only way to achieve lasting results.

How to get rid of bermuda grass in your lawn using solarization

Solarization is one of the most effective organic methods for clearing large patches of unwanted vegetation. This process uses the power of the sun to “cook” the grass and its seeds under a layer of plastic.

To start, you should mow the infested area as short as possible to reduce the biomass. Next, water the area deeply, as moist soil conducts heat much better than dry soil does.

Cover the entire area with a sheet of clear, heavy-duty plastic, ensuring it extends at least a foot past the visible grass edges. Clear plastic is actually better than black plastic because it creates a greenhouse effect, trapping more heat.

Secure the edges of the plastic with bricks, heavy stones, or landscape staples to prevent any heat from escaping. You want the temperature beneath that plastic to reach at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit for several weeks.

This method usually takes about six to eight weeks during the hottest part of the summer. While it leaves your yard looking a bit like a construction site for a while, it is a chemical-free way to sanitize the soil.

Keep in mind that solarization is non-selective, meaning it will kill any plants, beneficial microbes, or worms in the top layer of soil. You will need to amend the soil with compost once the process is complete to restore life to the area.

The Chemical Approach: Selective and Non-Selective Herbicides

Sometimes, manual labor and plastic aren’t enough, and you might consider reaching for a specialized product. When looking for how to get rid of bermuda grass in your lawn, you have two main chemical paths: selective and non-selective.

Non-selective herbicides, like those containing glyphosate, will kill almost any green plant they touch. This is ideal for “starting over” or treating large, isolated patches where you don’t mind losing the surrounding grass.

For the best results with glyphosate, apply it when the Bermuda grass is actively growing and lush. This allows the plant to transport the chemical down into the deep rhizomes, ensuring a more complete kill.

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Using Selective Herbicides in Existing Turf

If you want to remove the Bermuda grass without killing your desirable tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass, you need a selective herbicide. Look for products containing active ingredients like fenoxaprop-p-ethyl or triclopyr.

These chemicals are designed to stress or kill Bermuda grass while leaving your main lawn relatively unharmed. However, “selective” does not mean “risk-free,” so always follow the label instructions to the letter.

Selective treatments often require multiple applications spaced several weeks apart to be truly effective. Bermuda grass is tough, and it often takes a “one-two punch” to finally stop the regrowth from the deep root system.

Always wear protective gear, including gloves and long sleeves, when handling these products. It is also a good idea to keep pets and children off the treated area until the spray has completely dried.

Manual Removal: The “Grubbing” Technique

For small infestations or spots in delicate garden beds, manual removal is often the most precise option. This isn’t just “pulling weeds”; it is a process often called grubbing, which involves deep excavation.

Start by using a garden fork or a sharp spade to loosen the soil around the Bermuda grass patch. You want to go at least six inches deep to ensure you are getting under the primary rhizome network.

Gently lift the soil and sift through it with your hands, removing every white, fleshy root you find. Even a tiny piece left behind can regenerate, so be as meticulous as possible during this stage.

Avoid using a motorized tiller on Bermuda grass unless you plan to follow up with a heavy herbicide treatment. Tilling often chops the rhizomes into hundreds of small pieces, which actually helps the grass spread faster.

Dispose of the removed grass and roots in the trash or a dedicated yard waste bin. Never add Bermuda grass to your home compost pile, as most residential piles don’t get hot enough to kill the seeds or rhizomes.

The Smothering Method: Using Cardboard and Mulch

If you have a large area and you aren’t in a rush, sheet mulching is a fantastic, back-saving technique. This method “suffocates” the grass by blocking out all sunlight and oxygen over a period of several months.

Start by mowing the grass as low as you can, then cover the entire area with overlapping layers of plain brown cardboard. Make sure there are no gaps between the sheets, as the grass will find the light and grow through the cracks.

Wet the cardboard thoroughly to help it settle and begin the decomposition process. Once wet, apply a thick layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, at least 4 to 6 inches deep.

The cardboard creates a physical barrier that the Bermuda grass cannot easily penetrate. Over time, the grass beneath the cardboard dies off, and the cardboard itself breaks down into rich organic matter.

This method is particularly useful if you plan to turn that part of your lawn into a new garden bed. You can even cut holes in the cardboard to plant shrubs or perennials while the surrounding grass is being smothered.

Be patient with this approach; it often takes an entire growing season to ensure the Bermuda grass is completely gone. However, the result is beautiful, weed-free soil that is ready for your favorite ornamental plants.

How to Prevent Bermuda Grass from Returning

Once you have figured out how to get rid of bermuda grass in your lawn, the next challenge is keeping it away. Prevention is much easier than eradication, and it starts with a healthy, thick lawn.

Bermuda grass is an “opportunist” that loves thin spots in your turf where it can find sunlight and space to root. By maintaining a dense canopy of your desired grass, you naturally shade out any potential invaders.

Set your mower height higher for cool-season grasses like fescue (usually around 3 to 4 inches). This taller grass shades the soil surface, making it much harder for Bermuda grass stolons to take root and thrive.

Regular overseeding in the fall is another great way to keep your lawn thick and competitive. Filling in bare patches quickly ensures that “devil grass” doesn’t have an open invitation to move back in.

Finally, be careful with your watering and fertilization schedules. Bermuda grass loves frequent, shallow watering and high nitrogen levels during the peak of summer heat.

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Try to water deeply and infrequently to encourage deep roots in your desired grass while making the surface less hospitable for shallow-rooted invaders. A little bit of vigilance goes a long way in maintaining a beautiful yard.

Common Mistakes to Avoid During the Process

Many gardeners fail in their quest because they underestimate the plant’s ability to bounce back from adversity. One common mistake is stopping the treatment too early because the grass “looks dead.”

The top growth may turn brown and crispy, but the rhizomes underground might still be full of stored energy. Always follow through with the full duration of solarization or the recommended number of herbicide applications.

Another error is using the wrong type of mulch. Light, airy mulches like straw may not provide enough weight or light-blocking power to stop aggressive runners from pushing through.

Lastly, avoid “scalping” your lawn if you have a Bermuda grass infestation unless you are following it up with a kill method. Scalping weakens your good grass and gives the sun-loving Bermuda more light to grow.

Treating this grass is a marathon, not a sprint, so don’t get discouraged if you see a few green sprigs pop up. Just stay consistent with your removal method, and you will eventually win the war of attrition.

Frequently Asked Questions About How to Get Rid of Bermuda Grass in Your Lawn

Will vinegar kill Bermuda grass permanently?

While high-strength horticultural vinegar can burn the top leaves of the grass, it rarely kills the deep root system. Because the rhizomes remain intact, the grass will almost always sprout back within a few weeks of treatment.

When is the best time of year to start removal?

The best time to use herbicides or solarization is during the late spring and summer when the grass is actively growing. If the grass is dormant in the winter, these treatments will be largely ineffective as the plant isn’t “drinking” the chemicals or reacting to the heat.

Can I just dig out the Bermuda grass?

Yes, you can dig it out, but you must be extremely thorough. You need to remove the soil down to at least 6 inches and sift out every single root fragment to prevent the grass from regenerating and spreading again.

Is Bermuda grass ever beneficial?

In some southern climates, Bermuda grass is actually the desired lawn because it is so heat and drought-tolerant. However, it is considered a weed in most other contexts because of its invasive nature and tendency to choke out other plants.

Conclusion: Reclaiming Your Green Space

Learning how to get rid of bermuda grass in your lawn is a significant milestone for any dedicated gardener. It requires a bit of “detective work” to find the hidden roots and a lot of “grit” to stick with the treatment plan.

Whether you choose the chemical route, the solarization method, or the organic smothering approach, remember that consistency is your best friend. Don’t let those creeping runners discourage you from having the lawn of your dreams.

Take it one patch at a time, keep your desired grass healthy and thick, and soon that “devil grass” will be a distant memory. Your garden is a reflection of your hard work, and you deserve a space that isn’t dominated by an unwanted invader.

I hope this guide gives you the confidence to start your removal project today. Grab your gloves, pick your method, and go forth and grow!

Rimon Chowdhury
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