What To Compost – The Ultimate ‘Yes’ & ‘No’ List For Gardeners

ByRimon Chowdhury Updated on

Ever look at a pile of kitchen scraps or a bag of fallen leaves and feel a pang of guilt just tossing them out? You know there’s value there, a hidden potential that could make your garden thrive. But the world of composting can feel a little intimidating, with its talk of ratios, temperatures, and mysterious ‘don’ts’.

I’m here to promise you that it’s far simpler than it sounds. Think of me as your friendly neighbor leaning over the garden fence, ready to share the secrets. We’re going to turn that confusion into confidence.

In this complete what to compost guide, we’ll walk through exactly what your compost pile craves (the ‘greens’ and ‘browns’), what you should absolutely keep out, and some simple tips to create rich, dark, nutrient-packed ‘black gold’ for your garden. Let’s get our hands dirty!

The Magic of Compost: Why It’s Worth It

Before we dive into the lists, let’s talk about the why. Composting isn’t just about reducing landfill waste, though that’s a fantastic perk. For us gardeners, it’s about creating the single best soil amendment you can get your hands on, and for free!

The benefits of what to compost are incredible. This dark, crumbly material is teeming with microbial life that improves your soil structure, helps it retain moisture (meaning you water less!), and provides a slow-release source of essential nutrients for your plants. It’s the ultimate act of recycling, turning what you’d throw away into life-giving food for your garden.

This is the heart of sustainable what to compost practices—it’s a closed-loop system right in your backyard. You’re taking from the earth and giving right back to it, creating a healthier planet and a more vibrant garden in the process.

The Two Essential Ingredients: Greens and Browns Explained

The secret to great compost is balance. It’s like making a good lasagna—you need layers of different ingredients to get the perfect result. In composting, our layers are “Greens” and “Browns.” Don’t worry, you don’t need a scale or a chemistry set. It’s all about a simple, visual ratio.

Think of it this way: Greens provide Nitrogen, which helps the microorganisms grow and reproduce quickly. Browns provide Carbon, which is their food source and provides structure. A good rule of thumb is to aim for roughly two to three parts Browns for every one part Greens.

“Greens” – Your Nitrogen-Rich Powerhouse

These are the wet, fresh materials that tend to break down quickly. They are the “activators” that get your compost pile heating up.

  • Fruit & Vegetable Scraps: Apple cores, banana peels, carrot tops, lettuce that’s gone limp—it all goes in. Pro Tip: Chop up larger items like watermelon rinds to help them break down faster.
  • Coffee Grounds & Tea Bags: Your morning caffeine habit can fuel your compost pile, too! Coffee grounds are a fantastic source of nitrogen. Just be sure to remove any plastic from the tea bags.
  • Fresh Grass Clippings: A classic green material. Gardener’s Tip: Add grass clippings in thin layers and mix them with browns to prevent them from becoming a slimy, smelly mat.
  • Eggshells: A great source of calcium for your future soil. It’s one of the best what to compost tips to crush them up first so they decompose more easily.
  • Plant Cuttings & Weeds: Freshly pulled weeds (before they go to seed!) and trimmings from your houseplants or garden annuals are perfect greens.

“Browns” – The Carbon-Rich Foundation

These are the dry, woody materials that provide structure and prevent your pile from becoming a soggy mess. They are the slow-burning fuel for your compost ecosystem.

  • Dried Leaves: The absolute king of browns. If you do nothing else, collect your autumn leaves. They are a perfect carbon source.
  • Cardboard & Newspaper: A fantastic way to recycle. Pro Tip: Shred cardboard and newspaper into strips to increase surface area and speed up decomposition. Avoid glossy, colored inks and magazines.
  • Wood Chips & Sawdust: Use these in moderation, as they can take a long time to break down. Only use sawdust from untreated, unpainted wood.
  • Straw or Hay: Provides excellent aeration for the pile.
  • Pine Needles: They are a fine addition, but they are acidic and break down slowly, so use them as part of a mix rather than the sole brown ingredient.
  • Dryer Lint: Yes, really! As long as you’re washing natural fibers like cotton and wool, the lint is a great brown for your pile.
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Your Complete ‘What to Compost’ YES List

To make it even easier, here is a quick-reference list of items you can confidently add to your compost pile. This section is your go-to what to compost guide for everyday items.

From the Kitchen

  • All fruit and vegetable scraps (peels, cores, rinds)
  • Coffee grounds and paper filters
  • Tea leaves and paper tea bags
  • Crushed eggshells
  • Stale bread, crackers, and pasta (in moderation)
  • Cooked rice (in moderation)
  • Corn cobs and husks
  • Nutshells (except walnut shells, which can inhibit plant growth)

From the Garden & Yard

  • Fallen leaves
  • Grass clippings
  • Sticks, twigs, and small branches
  • Wood chips and sawdust (from untreated wood)
  • Old potting soil
  • Annual weeds (that haven’t gone to seed)
  • Deadheaded flowers and plant trimmings
  • Straw and hay

Surprising Items You CAN Compost

  • Shredded newspaper (avoiding glossy sections)
  • Shredded non-glossy cardboard (like toilet paper rolls and egg cartons)
  • Natural fiber dryer lint (from cotton, linen, wool)
  • Hair (human and pet)
  • 100% cotton balls and swabs (with cardboard sticks)
  • Natural wine corks (chopped up)
  • Wood ash (sprinkled lightly; it’s alkaline)

The Compost ‘NO’ List: What to AVOID for a Healthy Pile

Knowing what not to compost is just as important as knowing what to add. Adding the wrong ingredients is the source of most common problems with what to compost, leading to foul odors, pests, and a pile that just won’t break down properly.

Avoid these items to keep your compost happy and healthy:

  • Meat, Fish, and Bones: These will create terrible odors and are a magnet for pests like rodents and raccoons.
  • Dairy Products & Grease: Cheese, milk, butter, yogurt, and oily foods will also cause odor and pest problems.
  • Pet Waste (Dogs & Cats): This can contain harmful pathogens and parasites that you don’t want in your garden soil, especially if you’re growing edibles.
  • Diseased Plants or Insect-Infested Plants: A typical backyard compost pile doesn’t get hot enough to reliably kill off diseases and pests, so you risk reintroducing them to your garden later.
  • Persistent Weeds: Weeds that have gone to seed or invasive roots (like bindweed or quackgrass) can survive the composting process and spread throughout your garden.
  • Treated Wood or Coal Ash: Sawdust from pressure-treated wood contains toxic chemicals, and coal or charcoal ash contains sulfur and other materials harmful to plants.
  • Glossy or Coated Paper: Magazines, catalogs, and coated cardboard contain plastics and chemicals that don’t belong in your soil.
  • Synthetic Materials: Things like plastic, polyester lint, glass, and metal will never break down.

What to Compost Best Practices for Success

You’ve got your greens and your browns, and you know what to avoid. Now, let’s put it all together. Following this simple what to compost care guide will ensure you get beautiful compost every time.

Achieving the Perfect Balance

Remember that 2-3 parts Browns to 1 part Greens ratio? Don’t overthink it. When you add a bucket of kitchen scraps (Greens), just try to cover it with a couple of buckets of dried leaves or shredded cardboard (Browns). This simple act of layering will keep your pile in a great balance.

The Importance of Air and Water

Your compost pile is a living ecosystem, and it needs to breathe and drink! It should feel like a damp, wrung-out sponge. If it’s too dry, decomposition will slow to a halt. If it’s too wet, it will go anaerobic and start to smell sour.

Turn your pile with a pitchfork every week or two. This mixes everything together and introduces oxygen, which is crucial for the beneficial microbes doing all the hard work. This is a key part of how to what to compost effectively.

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Size Matters: Chop It Up!

The smaller the pieces, the faster they will decompose. More surface area means more places for microbes to work their magic. So, chop up that watermelon rind, shred that cardboard, and run your lawnmower over a pile of leaves before adding them. It makes a huge difference.

Solving Common Problems with What to Compost

Even seasoned gardeners run into a hiccup now and then. Don’t worry! Most composting problems are easy to fix.

My Compost Pile Smells Bad!

A foul, ammonia-like smell usually means you have too many Greens (nitrogen) and not enough air. It’s the most common issue! The fix is simple: add more Browns like dried leaves or shredded paper and give the pile a good turn to aerate it.

My Compost Isn’t Heating Up.

A pile that won’t get warm is often a sign that it’s too dry, has too many Browns, or is simply too small. Try adding some water, mixing in more Greens (like fresh grass clippings), and making sure your pile is at least 3x3x3 feet to retain heat.

I Have Pests in My Compost!

A few insects are normal, but if you’re attracting rodents or raccoons, it’s likely because you’ve added items from the ‘NO’ list. The solution is to stop adding meat, dairy, or oily foods. Also, make sure to bury your fresh kitchen scraps in the center of the pile, covering them with a layer of Browns.

Frequently Asked Questions About What to Compost

How long does it take to make compost?

It can take anywhere from a few months to a year, depending on your method, the materials you use, and how often you turn it. A “hot,” actively managed pile can be ready in 2-3 months, while a “cold,” passive pile might take a year. Finished compost will be dark, crumbly, and smell like rich earth.

Can I compost citrus peels and onions?

Yes, absolutely! There’s a myth that these are bad for compost, but it’s untrue. They are perfectly fine to add. They are acidic, but a balanced compost pile will easily buffer the pH. Like any other ingredient, just add them as part of a varied mix.

Do I need a special bin to start composting?

Nope! You can start with a simple pile in a corner of your yard. Bins and tumblers are great for keeping things tidy and can speed up the process, but they aren’t necessary. The most important thing for an eco-friendly what to compost setup is just to start!

What about composting weeds?

This is a tricky one. It’s best to avoid composting weeds that have developed seed heads or have aggressive root systems (like bindweed). A home compost pile rarely gets hot enough to kill determined seeds or roots, and you risk spreading them all over your garden when you use the finished compost.

Your Journey to Black Gold Begins Now

See? Composting isn’t a complicated science; it’s a simple, rewarding art. By understanding the basic recipe of Greens and Browns and knowing what to leave out, you are already well on your way.

Don’t strive for perfection on day one. Your first batch of compost might not be flawless, and that’s okay! Every shovelful of scraps you add is a step toward reducing waste and building the most incredible, life-giving soil for your garden.

So grab a small bucket for your kitchen counter, find a spot in your yard, and start your journey. Your future vegetables, flowers, and the earth itself will thank you. Go forth and grow!

Rimon Chowdhury
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