Split Leaf Philodendron Varieties – A Gardener’S Guide To Choosing
Have you ever walked into a plant shop, pointed at a gorgeous plant with huge, holey leaves, and called it a Split Leaf Philodendron, only to be told it’s a Monstera? Don’t worry, you’re not alone! It’s one of the most common mix-ups in the entire houseplant world, and it can make finding the right plant feel a bit confusing.
I promise that by the time you finish this guide, you’ll not only understand the difference but also feel confident choosing from the true split leaf philodendron varieties. You’ll discover which one is perfect for your space and exactly how to care for it.
We’re going to dive deep into the real stars of the show, explore their unique personalities, and cover everything from watering schedules to tackling pesky problems. This is your complete split leaf philodendron varieties guide to growing these stunning tropical giants with ease.
What's On the Page
- 1 First, Let’s Clear Up the Confusion: Monstera vs. Philodendron
- 2 The Most Popular Split Leaf Philodendron Varieties to Grow
- 3 A Comprehensive Split Leaf Philodendron Varieties Care Guide
- 4 How to Propagate Split Leaf Philodendron Varieties
- 5 Tackling Common Problems with Split Leaf Philodendron Varieties
- 6 Frequently Asked Questions About Split Leaf Philodendron Varieties
- 7 Your Journey to a Tropical Paradise Begins!
First, Let’s Clear Up the Confusion: Monstera vs. Philodendron
Before we meet the plants, let’s solve this classic botanical mystery once and for all. It’s the first step to becoming a true plant expert and providing the best care.
The plant most people think of as the “Split Leaf Philodendron” is almost always the Monstera deliciosa. While they are both in the same plant family (Araceae), they are different genera. Think of them as cousins, not siblings.
- Monstera Deliciosa: This plant develops holes within the leaf, a process called fenestration. As it matures, these holes often break through to the edge, creating that iconic split look. It’s a vining plant that loves to climb.
- True Split Leaf Philodendron: This name belongs to plants in the Thaumatophyllum genus (which were, confusingly, once classified as Philodendrons!). Instead of developing holes, their leaves are deeply lobed or cut from the edges inward, creating a feathery or finger-like appearance. They grow in a more self-heading or “tree-like” way, forming a thick trunk over time.
Knowing this difference is crucial because it helps you understand their growth habits and needs. Now, let’s get to know the real split leaf philodendron varieties you’ll fall in love with.
The Most Popular Split Leaf Philodendron Varieties to Grow
Ready to find your perfect leafy companion? Each of these Thaumatophyllum varieties brings a unique flair to your indoor jungle. They are surprisingly easy-going once you understand what they love.
The Classic: Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (Lacy Tree Philodendron)
This is the original showstopper! Often sold under its old name, Philodendron selloum, this plant is famous for its massive, deeply dissected leaves that can grow several feet long. It’s a statement piece that truly brings the jungle indoors.
As it matures, it develops a thick, woody trunk with unique “eye” markings where old leaves have fallen away. It wants to be the star of the room and needs space to spread out.
Pro Tip: Don’t be afraid to give this one a moss pole or stake. While not a true vine, a little support helps it grow upright and strong, especially when young.
The Compact Cousin: Thaumatophyllum ‘Hope’
If you love the look of the classic but don’t have room for a giant, ‘Hope’ is your answer. This cultivar is a more compact, manageable version that still delivers those gorgeous, ruffled, split leaves.
It maintains a bushier, more contained shape, making it perfect for smaller living rooms or as a lush floor plant that won’t take over. It’s one of the best split leaf philodendron varieties for beginners!
Pro Tip: Rotate your ‘Hope’ plant every week or so to ensure all sides get even light. This encourages a full, symmetrical shape rather than having it lean towards the window.
The Golden Touch: Thaumatophyllum ‘Golden Selloum’ or ‘Lemon Lime’
Want to add a splash of vibrant color? The ‘Golden Selloum’ is absolutely electrifying. Its new leaves emerge in a brilliant chartreuse or lemon-lime color that gradually deepens to a rich golden green.
This variety needs slightly more protection from direct sun than its green counterparts, as its lighter-colored leaves can scorch more easily. Place it in a spot with very bright, but filtered, light to maintain its incredible color.
Pro Tip: The intensity of the yellow and green color will change depending on the light it receives. Experiment with placement to find the perfect shade you love.
A Ruffled Gem: Thaumatophyllum xanadu
Formerly known as Philodendron xanadu, this variety is a fantastic choice for those who want a dense, bushy plant. Its leaves are smaller than the bipinnatifidum but are just as deeply lobed, with a more leathery, ruffled texture.
It grows in a clumping habit, sending out new growth from the base to create a full, wide mound of foliage. It’s an excellent choice for filling a corner or for use as a lush, tropical-looking groundcover in warmer climates.
Pro Tip: Because of its clumping nature, Xanadu is the easiest to propagate by division. When you repot it, you can often gently separate a smaller clump with its own roots to create a new plant!
A Comprehensive Split Leaf Philodendron Varieties Care Guide
No matter which variety you choose, their basic needs are quite similar. Follow these split leaf philodendron varieties best practices, and you’ll have a happy, thriving plant for years to come.
Light: Finding the Sweet Spot
These plants thrive in bright, indirect light. Think of the dappled sunlight on a rainforest floor. An east-facing window is perfect, or a spot a few feet back from a south or west-facing window works great too. Too much direct sun will scorch their leaves, while too little light will result in slow, leggy growth and smaller leaves.
Water: The “Soak and Dry” Method
Overwatering is the number one enemy! The best approach is to water thoroughly until it runs out of the drainage holes, then allow the top 2-3 inches of soil to dry out completely before watering again. Stick your finger in the soil to check—if it feels damp, wait a few more days.
Soil and Potting Best Practices
They need a chunky, airy, well-draining soil mix. A standard potting mix is too dense and will hold too much water. Create your own by mixing:
- One part standard potting soil
- One part orchid bark
- One part perlite or pumice
For more eco-friendly split leaf philodendron varieties care, you can substitute the peat-based potting soil with sustainable coco coir.
Humidity and Temperature
As tropical natives, they adore high humidity. While they can tolerate average household levels, they’ll be much happier with a boost. You can increase humidity by grouping plants together, using a pebble tray, or placing a humidifier nearby. They prefer temperatures between 65-85°F (18-29°C) and should be protected from cold drafts.
Feeding Your Philodendron
Feed your plant every 4-6 weeks during the spring and summer growing season with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Hold off on fertilizing in the fall and winter when the plant’s growth naturally slows down.
How to Propagate Split Leaf Philodendron Varieties
One of the great benefits of split leaf philodendron varieties is that you can create new plants to share! While the term is “how to split,” propagation is usually done via cuttings for the tree-like types or division for the clumping types.
Propagating by Stem Cutting (for T. bipinnatifidum, ‘Hope’, ‘Golden Selloum’)
- Select a Cutting: Using a clean, sharp knife, take a cutting from the main stem that includes at least one leaf and a node (the small bump where a leaf meets the stem).
- Let it Callous: Allow the cut end to sit out for a few hours to callous over, which helps prevent rot.
- Root in Water or Soil: You can place the cutting in a jar of water (changing the water weekly) or plant it directly into a small pot of moist soil.
- Be Patient: Roots can take several weeks to a few months to form. Once the roots are a few inches long in water, you can transfer it to soil.
Propagating by Division (for T. xanadu)
When you repot your Xanadu, gently remove it from its pot and shake off the excess soil. You should see natural clumps or offsets at the base. Carefully tease these sections apart, ensuring each piece has a healthy root system, and pot them up individually.
Tackling Common Problems with Split Leaf Philodendron Varieties
Even the best plant parents run into issues. Don’t worry! Here are solutions to the most common problems with split leaf philodendron varieties.
Yellowing Leaves? Here’s Why.
A yellow leaf here and there is normal, especially on older, lower leaves. But if you see multiple leaves turning yellow, it’s a distress signal. The most common cause is overwatering and potential root rot. Check your soil moisture and adjust your watering schedule immediately. It can also be a sign of underwatering or a nutrient deficiency.
Pesky Pests: Spider Mites and Mealybugs
These plants are fairly pest-resistant, but they can occasionally attract spider mites (look for fine webbing) or mealybugs (look for white, cottony masses). For a sustainable split leaf philodendron varieties approach, wipe the pests off with a damp cloth and treat the plant with a natural insecticidal soap or neem oil spray.
Brown, Crispy Edges or Spots
This is almost always a sign of low humidity or inconsistent watering. The air is likely too dry. Try using a humidifier or one of the methods mentioned earlier. It can also be a sign of sunburn if the spots are in areas hit by direct sunlight.
Frequently Asked Questions About Split Leaf Philodendron Varieties
Are split leaf philodendrons toxic to pets?
Yes, they are. Like other aroids, these plants contain calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause irritation and swelling of the mouth, tongue, and throat if ingested by cats or dogs. It’s best to keep them out of reach of curious pets.
Why aren’t my philodendron’s leaves splitting?
Patience, young gardener! Leaf splitting (or lobing) is a sign of maturity. Young plants will have solid, heart-shaped leaves. As the plant gets older and receives enough bright, indirect light, it will begin to produce its signature split leaves. More light often encourages more splits!
How fast do these plants grow?
In ideal conditions (good light, water, and warmth), they are relatively fast growers, especially during the spring and summer. You can expect to see a new leaf unfurl every few weeks during the growing season. A Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum can become a massive floor plant in just a few years.
Your Journey to a Tropical Paradise Begins!
You’ve done it! You’ve moved beyond the common mix-ups and are now equipped with the expert knowledge to grow a true split leaf philodendron. From the magnificent Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum to the charming Xanadu, you know how to choose the right one for your home and give it the love it deserves.
Remember the simple rules: bright indirect light, let the soil dry out, and give it some humidity. These plants are incredibly rewarding, transforming any space with their dramatic, architectural foliage.
So go ahead, pick your favorite variety, and get ready to watch your indoor jungle thrive. Happy growing!
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